Online Turf’s Lawn Care Calendar
Ready to achieve a perfect lawn, all year round?
With over 20 years of experience, Online Turf has been growing and supplying high quality turf to landscapers and homeowners all over the UK, meaning we know a thing or two about lawn care.
We’ve taken all of our industry knowledge and put it into one, easy-to-read lawn care calendar so that you can keep on top of your monthly lawn maintenance, whether you’re a total novice or a gardening pro. Our expert-approved plan follows your lawn throughout the seasons, splitting down maintenance tasks month by month so that you know exactly what your lawn needs and when.
Our guide is tailored to the UK climate, which can be famously unpredictable, so it’s important to make sure that you’re tailoring your lawn care to your grass needs and your local climate for the best results.
Spring Lawn Care
Spring is the perfect place to start our calendar as it’s the season of new growth. Your lawn will be coming out of winter dormancy and beginning to grow again, so there’s plenty of spring lawn care that needs to be done.
March
As the temperatures start to increase and your grass begins to grow, unfortunately, weeds are also likely to grow alongside it.
You should try and keep on top of your spring weed control - if they’re left to grow, they’ll be much harder to fully eradicate further down the line as they’ll have more established root systems.
You can either dig them out by hand or, for more stubborn weeds, you can use a chemical weed killer to make sure they’re killed at the root.
You can also look into alternative, non-chemical weed killers for an eco-friendly way to tackle the weeds in your lawn.
You may want to double up and use a spring weed & feed to both tackle weeds in your lawn and give your lawn a nutrient boost at the same time.
March is also a good time to give your lawn its first mow. You’ll want to make sure the lawn is dry first as mowing wet grass can potentially damage both your grass and your mower.
Wet grass is denser, meaning it puts more strain on your mower. Instead of giving a clean cut, mowing your lawn when it's wet can tear the grass blades, leaving them damaged, uneven and more susceptible to disease.
Setting your mower blade height high means that you won’t take too much length off on it’s first mow and you can lower the height as you continue to mow throughout spring and summer.
For the first mow in March, leaving the dry grass clippings on your lawn can help provide a nitrogen boost to the ground, giving the soil a boost as it begins to grow again.
However, it’s important to make sure there’s not too much clumped together as it can smother the lawn, so you may want to rake the dry clippings for a light, even coverage.
April
If you’re wondering when to feed your lawn, then April is the perfect time as this is when your grass begins to grow again after winter.
Giving your lawn a fertiliser boost to kick-start the growth process will help create a dense and healthy lawn. A nutrient boost can help encourage strong and healthy root growth that's ready to withstand the heavier foot traffic of late spring and summer.
A fertiliser with a high nitrogen content can help green up your grass blades if they’re looking a bit dull after winter dormancy but can also make the grass grow quickly, so have your mower at the ready!
Want to feed your lawn like a pro? Test your soil to see what nutrients it’s deficient in before fertilising. This means you’re getting a tailored fertiliser that you know will help your grass thrive.
An optimal soil pH for healthy grass growth is between 6-7, which is slightly acidic to neutral. You may find that your lawn is deficient in essential nutrients like nitrogen or potassium, meaning you can buy a fertiliser that specifically tailors to these deficiencies.
If you want to leave the testing to the pros and just give your lawn a general boost then a balanced, slow-release fertiliser is a great low-maintenance choice. It slowly provides nutrients to your grass over time as it begins to grow again, keeping it healthier for longer. You can also use your own homemade compost as a fertiliser, or leftover coffee grounds from your kitchen for a small nitrogen boost.
As well as fertilising, April is also the ideal time to scarify your lawn.
Removing any thatch or moss build-up from winter helps your lawn breathe & allows water and nutrients to reach the ground below more easily. You should make sure you’ve mowed the lawn before scarifying to help the scarifier effectively remove the build-up.
If you’re looking to redo your lawn entirely, then April is the perfect time to lay new turf down due to the mild climate and steady rainfall.
If you’re wondering how to care for new turf, we’ve got plenty of guides on how to prepare your ground, how to lay turf and our extensive turf products range to make sure you can get a stunning lawn that’s ready for summer.
May
Now that we’re well into spring, you’ll be able to tell if there’s any areas of your lawn that haven’t fully recovered from winter.
You may see areas that are patchy, or thin that could benefit from repair.
You can use turf to patch in any areas or, to help your lawn look thicker and denser, you can overseed.
May is the perfect time to overseed as the climate lends itself perfectly to successful germination. It also means your lawn will be repaired in time to use over summer.
The healthier and denser the lawn, the more resilient it is for heavier foot traffic and the less likely it is to develop weeds or any turf diseases.
With temperatures on the rise and April showers passing, you’ll want to keep an eye on your watering schedule in May.
If temperatures are high, you’ll need to water your lawn daily to keep it nice and green. Underwatered lawns will appear yellow and dry - keep an eye on your grass, it will tell you when it’s thirsty!
Watering your lawn in spring helps bring it out of winter dormancy but try not to overwater it at this stage. Your lawn will just need a good, thorough watering once or twice a week to make sure it’s kept nice and moist.
Watering shallowly can mean that it’s not soaking through to the roots and the grass can’t absorb it.
If you’ve got new turf that you’ve laid and you’re wondering ‘how often should I water my new lawn?’ then the answer is every day.
Established lawns can handle a deep but infrequent watering schedule, but newly laid turf will need watering 1-2 times a day whilst it roots in. How often you water your lawn depends on your local climate and current weather, not just the season, so you should always tailor your lawn care to the immediate needs of your grass
If the temperatures are still quite cool and rainfall is high, you won’t need to water your lawn as the rain will take care of that for you. However, if a May heatwave comes along and your soil / grass looks to be quite dry, this is a sign to increase your watering.
Summer Lawn Care
Summer is all about keeping on top of your lawn care and making sure your lawn stays well-maintained as it continues to grow. A well looked after lawn will be happier, healthier and stays resilient to wear & tear, weeds and diseases.
June
Your grass will now be growing consistently, so you need to make sure you’re staying on top of your mowing to keep your lawn well-maintained. If you leave your lawn to grow too long, it can be detrimental to its health.
Long, overgrown grass can limit airflow from reaching the soil below, encouraging lawn diseases that thrive in humid conditions like dollar spot or red thread. Long, dense shrubbery is also the perfect habitat for pests like grubs that love to use overgrown grass as their habitat. Grubs feed on your grass roots, causing the lawn to die off in patchy areas.
Mowing regularly not only helps your grass look good and maintained, but it’s important in keeping it resistant to pest infestations and lawn diseases.
- When wondering how often you need to mow your lawn in summer, the answer depends on how quickly your grass is growing. Some lawns will grow quicker than others depending on your ground conditions.
- Mowing to a consistent height means that you minimise the risk of scalping the lawn. Mowing your lawn too short causes patchy, uneven growth. Don't take off more than 1/3 of the grass length at any one time to avoid scalping.
- In the summer heat, the best time to mow is in the morning or evening before the sun is directly overhead. In hot weather, your lawn will likely already be stressed, so adding further stress by mowing when the sun is at its hottest can damage the grass.
July
In July, hot temperatures will mean that one of your main lawn care tasks is watering your grass!
Underwatering is one of the most common summer lawn care mistakes we see, but there’s ways to make sure you’re watering correctly so that the grass roots can properly soak up the moisture.
In standard British July weather, temperatures average at around 18-20 °C. Prolonged hot and dry temperatures cause the soil to dry out quickly, so your lawn will need your help to make sure it’s still getting plenty of moisture.
It’s best to water your lawn deeply as this encourages the grass roots to grow down deeper into the soil to access the water, encouraging developed, stable root systems. This means your lawn is more equipped to tackle extreme weather conditions in the future.
Watering deeply in the morning and evening will also ensure that the lawn has enough time to soak up the moisture before the sun is directly overhead and evaporating it from the ground.
If you’re using a sprinkler, you’ll want to make sure that it’s running for enough time to thoroughly soak through to the ground below. You also may need to move the sprinkler to different spots so that the entire lawn is getting even coverage.
If you’re wondering how to care for your established lawn during an extended heatwave, you may want to consider holding off watering until the hot weather has passed.
It may sound counter-intuitive but, in prolonged droughts, established lawns can be left to go dormant. However, an occasional deep watering can help the roots survive until the rain returns.
If you’re watering your lawn constantly in a heatwave, the sun will be quickly evaporating it from the ground, meaning that it’s only getting a shallow watering. This stops the roots from growing deep into the soil and keeps them shallow to try and absorb the moisture, which makes your grass less resilient and stable in the long run.
The grass blades may look a little worse for wear in a heatwave and you may worry about your lawn dying in the heat, but the roots will still be alive and ready to re-grow when the rain returns.
August
August is the perfect time to tackle any weeds that have cropped up over summer. Grass growth accelerates due to the rising temperatures so, unfortunately, so does weed growth.
Removing weeds right before the cooler temperatures of Autumn means that your lawn won’t be fighting for sunlight, nutrients and water. Therefore, it will be healthier and well-equipped to tackle the incoming colder months. As the climate is still warm in August, the weeds will still be actively growing, so they’re able to soak up any weed killer that you apply.
The sooner you tackle weeds, the less likely they are to spread their seeds and cause a larger infestation. Although it is more tedious, the best practice for weed removal (especially on early growth weeds) is to tackle them by hand. It’s a more precise and non-invasive method and, if pulling them out with the roots attached, makes sure they can’t re-grow.
If your lawn looks a little tired after all the heavy summer use, you may be tempted to fertilise your lawn in August as we move closer to Autumn.
However, you should hold off on fertilising until the temperatures are consistently cool, as, if you fertilise during hot weather, sometimes the high levels of nitrogen can burn patches onto your lawn.
Fertiliser burn appears as ‘bleached’ spots or brown patches and is caused by the high salt content in the fertiliser drawing water out of the grass which dehydrates it. This can happen if you over-apply and is particularly common when the lawn is dry or when the sun is directly overhead. Grass that is positioned in direct sun or already damaged from heavy use in the summer will also be naturally weaker and more likely to suffer from fertiliser burn.
Autumn Lawn Care
Autumn is a crucial time for lawn care as it’s the ideal climate for garden maintenance.
The mild temperatures and increased rainfall are ideal for preparing your lawn for winter dormancy. The more work you put in now, the healthier your lawn will be when spring rocks back around again.
September
September is the perfect time to aerate your lawn and improve its drainage ready for the increased rainfall in Autumn.
You tend to use your lawn more in summer, which can cause soil compaction. Compacted soil isn’t built to withstand the heavier rainfall of fall and means that areas of water can end up pooling on your lawn, making it boggy and muddy.
You can aerate with both a purpose- designed aerating machine, or even with a garden fork. This can help increase the airflow to the ground below and improves the soil structure. It also helps water reach the roots more easily, improving your lawn health.
Increased rainfall also means that you won’t need to water your lawn as much, reducing your watering to once or twice a week, or even not at all if rainfall is heavy. If you’re noticing water pooling on your lawn after watering, this is a sign that you may be overwatering your lawn. It’s best to stop watering until the lawn dries up.
Aerating not only improves your drainage and soil health but can also help prepare your lawn for any overseeding you may want to do in autumn. The mild climate and steady rainfall of September are perfect for overseeding and the aerated holes help the seed make good contact with the ground for successful germination.
Overseeding helps inspire re-growth in areas that may be sparse. To overseed, follow these simple steps:
- Calculate the required amount of seed needed, 20g/m2 is an ideal measurement for overseeding.
- Spread the seed evenly over the affected area. Sowing in both directions means you get full, even coverage.
- Once sown, lightly sprinkle topsoil over the area to ensure the seed is properly covered to allow successful germination.
- Water after sowing and maintain a regular watering schedule if conditions are dry.
You can also use seed to sow a new lawn from scratch, though this would have to be done in early autumn to allow sufficient time for the seeds to germinate and grow.
The steps are mostly the same as above, but with a recommended coverage of 25-35 /m2.
If you don’t want to wait weeks for seeds to germinate and instead want a new autumn lawn fast then laying turf is a great alternative, especially for the time of year.
Autumn’s mild temperature is ideal for turf laying as it lowers the risk of the rolls overheating and provides plenty of moisture for the grass as it roots in.
October
You can’t fertilise a frozen lawn, so, before the temperatures get too cold, it’s best to give your grass a boost in October, to help see it through winter. Fertilising before winter means it can withstand the colder weather and helps prevent lawn diseases and bare patches from occurring.
- If you want to give your lawn a boost to help it survive the harsher winter climate, you should avoid using the same fertiliser that you will have used in the spring
- As the weather changes, so does your lawn’s needs, and using the same feed all year round may not give you the best results.
- There's a lot of fertiliser products out there, which can seem daunting, but as long as you go for a winter-specialised formula, you can’t go wrong.
- The best feed to use in autumn would be one that contains potassium, iron and a low amount of nitrogen. The potassium and iron keeps the grass nice and strong throughout winter. A small touch of nitrogen helps maintain colour, but too much can weaken the lawn in winter.
In late Autumn, you’ll be seeing a build up of debris on your lawn from fallen leaves.
An important Autumn lawn care job is regularly raking the lawn. This clears any debris and helps keep sufficient airflow to your lawn.
If debris is left to pile up, it can create humid and smothered conditions which are ideal for lawn diseases to thrive in.
Areas of your lawn can become patchy and slimy where mould or fungi may have formed.
You may also find, in humid and wet conditions, that toadstools appear in your lawn.
The autumnal weather conditions are the perfect environment for them to thrive, but don’t panic, as they don’t do any direct damage to your lawn.
You can usually pick them out by hand (make sure to wear gloves!) and they will disappear when the weather becomes more cold and dry.
November
During Autumn, you won’t need to mow your lawn as frequently as your grass growth will have slowed significantly. If you’re constantly mowing your lawn and it cannot grow back in between mows, you can risk scalping the lawn and causing patchy re-growth.
As we move towards winter, you should try to gradually raise your blade height with each mow, to help minimise the risk of scalping. You should aim to do your last mow in early November, but it will heavily depend on your local climate and grass growth.
The best indicators to stop mowing is when temperatures become below 10°c and your grass has actively stopped growing following your last mow. Keep an eye out for a mild, dry day to do your last mow as mowing wet or frosty grass produces uneven results. It also risks damaging your grass blades, making it more susceptible to lawn diseases.
You should be using your lawn less as it gets colder, so November is a great time to prepare your garden equipment ready to store away over winter.
You should thoroughly clean your lawn mower to make sure that it’s in the best condition to use again next spring:
- If you have a petrol mower, you’ll want to change the oil and replace the spark plug.
- You should also clean the deck and blades to remove any mud or grass clippings. You should do this with a stiff brush or scraper tool, so that you don’t risk cutting yourself on the blades.
- Leaving debris to solidify onto the deck and blades isn’t great for your mower health - it can cement on and be extremely difficult to remove further down the line. Cleaning it regularly and before it’s put into storage for the winter keeps it in tip top condition ready for it to be used again in spring.
Winter Lawn Care
Winter is the perfect time to give your lawn (and yourself!) a bit of a break from garden maintenance. The priority with your winter lawn care is keeping it stable and dormant, ready for it to thrive again in spring the following year.
December
The best thing to do for your lawn in December is to stay off it and leave it alone!
Constant use of the lawn in low, frosty temperatures can have long lasting effects for the health of your garden. Any damage done to the lawn is hard to repair - your lawn isn’t actively growing so isn’t able to repair itself in the short term, making any lasting damage a lot harder to fix when spring rolls back around.
If you’re using your lawn in frosty, cold weather, it’s likely going to compact your soil further too. It will make the soil denser and harder, limiting any airflow or water from reaching the grass roots.
In winter, you need your soil to be in the best condition possible to handle the increased rainfall so that you’re not waterlogging your lawn, so staying off it is the best way to make sure your lawn is staying healthy.
Even though you’re not using your lawn in December, it doesn’t mean you can’t prepare for your springtime lawn care.
For example, why not start a compost pile? It's a great way to turn leftover kitchen scraps (like those Christmas dinner veggies or leftover wrapping paper) into a rich, natural fertilizer. Sprouts, carrots or potatoes are perfect kitchen scraps to use, alongside leftover wrapping paper or cardboard from Christmas presents to make up the balance of green & brown waste. Make sure the wrapping paper is compostable - any that contain traces of plastic won't be suitable. Keeping the compost ticking over Winter means that you’ll have a homemade fertiliser that’s rich in nutrients ready for Spring.
January
In the UK, snowfall in January is usually brief and won't harm your lawn. However, heavy and persistent snow cover can cause damage to your lawn. The cold, damp climate and lack of airflow can encourage fungal lawn diseases like snow mould to develop.
Snow mould kills areas of your grass, causing dead patches. It’s hard to spot until the snow has thawed, to it’s best to stay on top of clearing to make sure you’re not allowing the disease to thrive.
If the snow thaws and you’re seeing fluffy, spider web like strands on your lawn- this is a sign that snow mould has developed. You can overseed the lawn in spring to encourage re-growth in these areas, and the disease should die off once airflow is improved.
If you’re feeling that refreshed ‘new year, new me’ energy, then you can get a head start on making sure your lawn care equipment is ready to use again. Why not try sharpening your mower blades?
A well-maintained mower will run better & make cleaner cuts, meaning you’ll get a happier and healthier lawn when you begin mowing again in spring.
To sharpen your blades, you should take them off the mower and clean them (if you didn’t already before storing it away for winter) to get them ready for sharpening.
It’s worth inspecting the blade itself at this stage- if it is badly damaged, then it may be best to replace it instead.
If it is still in good condition, you should place it into a vice and use a file or a grinder to sharpen it at an angle. You should be aiming for a butter-knife level of sharpness for best results.
Once you have done the first side, make sure to flip the blade over and do the exact same thing on the second side, then re-install back onto the mower.
February
In February, your lawn is now starting to transition out of winter dormancy. Any snowfall will hopefully be melting and the warmer temperatures of spring are on the horizon, so it’s important to keep an eye on your lawn for any repair work that needs to be done.
If there are any patches, or uneven growth on your lawn, you should note where these are and invest in some seed to use for when temperatures get a little warmer. You should also note if there are any areas where water is pooling so you know if you need to aerate or not.
It’s likely still too cold to do any of these tasks in February, but it’s good to note any issues that may need resolving in Spring.
The same goes for fertilising – people think that February is a good time to feed the lawn to help bring it out of winter dormancy and fix any patchy growth that’s occurred over winter. However, the lawn won’t absorb any of the fertiliser applied as it’s still in its winter dormancy phase. It’s best to wait until the temperatures warm up and the grass starts growing again.
Though the snow may have cleared, it’s important that you don’t rush into mowing your lawn. In February, your lawn won’t be growing again yet and you can risk scalping your grass if you mow too early. It’s best to wait until you can see your grass actively growing (which is usually the mid to the end of March) and mow the dry lawn on the highest blade setting.
If you do want to do any pre-emptive repairs before spring, then you can lay turf to patch in any areas that may have died off over winter.
You can lay turf in winter, as long as the ground isn’t frozen solid.
You should make sure your soil is as light and fluffy as it can be to help the roots grow downward into the soil and expect it to take a little longer to root into the ground.
By following Online Turf’s lawn care calendar, you’re making sure that your grass is getting expert, tailored care all year-round.
With the right knowledge and tools for each season, you can give your lawn the exact care it needs to be happier and healthier. Remember to encourage new growth in spring, maintain that healthy growth during summer, prepare for the changing climate in autumn and then let your turf rest over winter.
